“Taquerías en la University” explores culture in Des Moines

September 25, 2024

When Anthony Arroyo tore his Achilles tendon in 2021, his mind first turned to taco trucks.

The Des Moines-based photographer had been considering a project around taco trucks for awhile. He couldn’t walk; he might as well drive to these spaces he’d frequented his entire life and see what he could create..

Equipped with his camera and a grant from the Iowa Arts Council, he set out to create “Taquerías en la University,” a book collection of photographs depicting taco trucks on and around University Avenue in Des Moines. The resulting project is a vibrant celebration of the ways these businesses transform our community.

Anthony grew up on the East Side of Des Moines. He went to East High School. His family is of Mexican heritage, and they’ve long been patrons of the University Avenue taco truck scene. He understands the relationships built within those spaces.

Taquerías en la University, 2024: Anthony Arroyo

“My mom used to go to Taqueria Veracruz on Penn and University all of the time, and the woman always knew what she wanted to order,” he said. “They had a relationship that had been ongoing for who knows how many years. Other people can do that too. You gotta just show up with a smile and not be shy.”

That was Anthony’s goal with this project — getting more people to show up to these spaces he believes are such an integral part of our community. But it’s not just about the sense of belonging built when an employee remembers a customer’s order.

It’s also about the way these taco trucks have built a relationship with the spaces which they inhabit. A transformative relationship that brings a familial, energetic spark to otherwise ordinary places. Barren parking lots surrounded by dried grass and pockets of trees gasping for water. A piece of concrete sprawled alongside a quiet Advance Auto Parts. The driveway of a graying house built before the city expanded.

These are neighborhood spaces that have been revived by taco trucks covered in brilliant-colored murals, passing out cold Jarritos to friends and strangers enjoying each other’s company over a plate of Latin American food.

“Without [these trucks], these would just be empty parking lots and empty plots of land. The art that exists wouldn’t be here. Look at the spaces these people make for us,” said Anthony. “You could sense how abandoned these places would look had there not been trucks there.”

Places such as these are called “Third Places” – a term coined by sociologist Ray Oldenburg that refers to places away from home or work where people spend time. These are the spaces that cities like Des Moines and other urban areas across America have devalued so much that they’ve reached a dire state of disintegration. 

Places like shopping malls and arcades, where adolescents could hang out safely with their friends. Outdoor recreation spaces, social clubs, religious gatherings, community centers.

A picnic table next to a taco truck.

“It’s not the most glamorous third space, but it’s nice that you could be sitting around with very different kinds of people. I’ve seen people from the state capitol suited up on the corner. You can just enjoy your meal and hang out,” said Anthony.

Taquerías en la University, 2004: Anthony Arroyo

Creating these third spaces, bringing together community — it’s all a beautiful sentiment, and you can sense the pride the taco truck owners feel from Anthony’s photos he took inside the trucks. There’s also an underlying sense of a work ethic borne out of pure necessity.

“These people worked through the pandemic and were feeding our communities. It was not out of, ‘Oh, we’re doing this because we want to.’ It’s because of necessity. They had to for their survival, because the government wasn’t going to come save them,” said Anthony.

Part of the stipulations of his grant was to depict communities affected by the pandemic. He knew that immigration statuses meant some of these folks weren’t eligible for federal COVID-19 support. These folks didn’t have the luxury of staying home. The taco trucks are not just a passion but a means for survival.

Anthony placed a photo on the second page of “Taquerías en la University” that is striking in its juxtaposition to what one might expect in a project about taco trucks.

Snow falls on a winter day. You can tell it hasn’t been snowing terribly long, but it’s been snowing heavily, and it won’t stop any time soon. It gathers on the expansive roof of a building in the center of the photo. The parking lot is covered in a way that your mother would take one look and take away your car keys. The sky is blinding, snowflakes blurring the buildings in the distance.

Taquerías en la University, 2024: Anthony Arroyo

But the focus of the photo lies on a cerulean taco truck, two double doors splayed wide to reveal a multi-colored, lit up “OPEN” sign and a mural depicting a southern countryside that has certainly never seen the likes of this weather. On the back end, photographs of the truck’s offerings. Towards the front, a snow shovel leaned up against the truck’s hood.

It’s a uniquely Iowan scene, this burst of cultural significance ensconced within a landscape of white snow. It perfectly encapsulates what Anthony hoped his project would capture: this Latinx community that has historically been seen as outside of the mainstream, being recognized for the vibrant cultures they provide to our neighborhoods. 

“My intention was that these trucks should be documented and seen as a very significant part of our city’s culture,” Anthony said.

CultureALL believes that sharing the cultural richness of our community with others will elevate our society and the quality of life for all.